Question:
Magic The Gathering, Countering spells and deck help?
Dystophia
2008-12-03 23:27:08 UTC
Hey, I'm fairly new to MTG (well, the official rules anyways). I have a couple questions. First of all, if my opponent was going to play a spell, would I have to play the counterspell BEFORE he actually plays the card or can i play it before it resolves? Like, can he go to play the card and I counter it when I see it, or would i have to like split-second counter it right when he's going to lay it down on the field?

Also, I'm attempting to make blue/black and blue/white control decks. Are there any suggestions? I was thinking cards that just get rid of their hand (Ostracise, Wrench Mind, stuff like that) and then counterspells and some creatures. What type of creatures would I use, and are there any other card suggestions?
Seven answers:
NoOB123
2008-12-05 21:18:20 UTC
No. You can play a spell in response to your opponent’s spell. If you play a counterspell, it would stack on top of your opponent’s spell, and therefore resolve first. Your counterspell resolves, countering your opponent’s spell, and leaves you happy and your opponent rather sad.

This goes back to the difference between playing a spell and resolving a spell. When a player plays a card, he or she is only playing a spell. The spell has not officially resolved yet. That player must pass priority to his/her opponent, allowing them to respond, before the spell actually resolves, and its effects are felt.

About discarding cards, you CAN play spells in response to your opponent playing a spell that makes you discard, as long as you can legally play the spell (it’s type is right, and you have the mana to pay for it.)





Hope that Helped!
Rhys M
2008-12-04 05:27:32 UTC
Well, of course your opponent has to play the spell before you can counter it. As it resolves, you will respond to counter the spell. You are given 'priority'. For example, my opponent played Wrath of God. As it goes on the 'stack', I respond and play 'Cancel', and counter Wrath of God. A simple rule to this is the FILO (first in, last out). Which means that the last spell played will be the first to resolve. And if a spell DOES go down on the field (or to the graveyard if it was a sorcery), that means that the spell has resolved and you have not decided to counter it. You may no longer counter the spell if you passed up the chance to do so. Now, for your other question...



Blue/Black and Blue/White control decks? Well that depends. Are you planning to play in the Type I or II formats? I'm not good with Type I so I'll give my suggestions for type II.



For Blue/Black, the best control deck that I know of (and the best one, I might add) is the Faeries deck. The Faeries deck is undoubtedly the no.1 Blue/Black control deck. Thanks to the powerful Cryptic Command, Mistbind Clique, Bitterblossom, and other powerful cards.



Here's a deck list:



Creatures:

4 Scion of Oona

4 Mistbind Clique

4 Spellstutter Sprite

3 Vendilion Clique

2/3 Sower of Temptation



Spells:

4 Crpytic Command

4 Broken Ambitions

4 Agony Warp

3/4 Bitterblossom

3 Jace Beleren



Lands:



4 Sunken Ruins

4 Secluded Glen

4 Mutavault

4 Undergorund River

4 Faerie Conclave

3 Island

2 Swamp



That's about it, for the Blue/Black deck. No other Blue/Black deck is better than this. As for Blue/White, I don't know if the Reveillark decks are still on the radar. Just look it up. For me, Faeries are definitley the best control decks around, even better that the 5 color control.
Daivos
2008-12-04 14:07:03 UTC
1. The active player is the player who has priority. Depending on the phase, the active player can play one or more of the following: instant, sorcery, planeswalkers, creatures, lands and / or artifacts.



Lands do not use the stack and cannot be countered. All other spells use the stack. When a spell is played, it is announced. That spell cannot resolve until the active player passes priority to their opponent. The active player does not have to pass priority immediately and can play additional spells while they have priority; however, none will resolve until both players have had a chance to act.



Once priority is passed, the opponent becomes the active player and may play 'instant' spells, or spells that read 'can be played as an instant' within their card text.



At that point, a counter spell may be announced and paid for through mana, along with a target spell to be countered. The active player, in this case the opponent, then must pass priority back to the original player, at which time, they too get to respond with their own actions. If they do respond, priority is passed back again. If they do not respond, the spells resolve in the order in which they were played, also referred to as 'the stack'.



As spells on the stack resolve, other responses may be made.



The short answer: They play a spell. You then play the counterspell, targeting that spell. If they don't have a response, such as countering your counterspell, then the spell fizzles.



2. Any type of control deck involves restricting your opponent from using their strategy to win the game. This involves playing 'answers' to your opponents 'threats'. In order to do this effectively, a control player must gain the advantage in other areas of the game, because if you don't, eventually your opponent will play one to many threats, and you will lose.



The most effective control strategies involve card advantage. It is probably the single most important aspect of building a competitive control deck.



Generally, all control decks play counterspells and mass removal spells, but card advantage is where the real control comes from.



Examples:



1. If an opponent plays three creatures and you play 'Wrath of God', that player loses three cards and you only lose one card, netting you a card advantage of +2.



2. If at the end of an opponents turn, you can play a card that will allow you to draw two cards, then that nets you +1 card advantage.



3. If you can put a card in play that causes your opponent to discard a card each turn, you will net +1 card for every card after one.



As for creatures, there are many different strategies. Some control decks will only play a very small number of creatures, preferring to play card draw and counterspells first-and-foremost. Then, the creature that is finally played toward the end of the game is usually so powerful that it locks down the opponent by simply being in-play.



Another strategy is to use creatures with triggers, such as discard and card drawing triggers, allowing you to gain card advantage and overwhelm your opponent. Another strategy is to use creatures that are constantly recurring from the graveyard, and is yet another effective form of gaining card advantage.



Creatures that can be played as instants are especially effective, because you can avoid tapping your land on your turn in favor of counterspells, and if your opponent does not play a threat on their turn, you can play your 'instant' creature at the end of their turn. Then on your next turn, that creature does not suffer summon sickness and you lands are untapped again allowing you to protect that creature from leaving play.



Another highly effective creature for control decks are those that act as counterspells themselves, such as 'Mystic Snake' or those that giver other creatures 'Shroud' when played as instants. These types of creatures allow you to generally put a creat
anonymous
2008-12-04 08:16:35 UTC
Counterspells, as Instants, can be played at any time; resolving when a target being played is chosen



I recommend sticking with a single color until you get a good feel for the rules. Decks using opposite colors, (black/white, red/blue, red/green), are difficult to construct and use effectively. If you really want a multicolor deck, start with colors that work well together, (black/red [my personal fave], green/white, green/black [extremely difficult to play against], blue/white).



Essentials for blue:

=> 4x Counterspell

=> Merfolk

=> Wizards



Essentials for white:

=> 4x Wrath of God

=> 4x Pacifism

=> Clerics

=> Angels

=> Dragons



You should also throw in some artifacts; Myrs and Golems work well with all colors.
Bill C
2008-12-04 06:35:22 UTC
Both previous answers are perfect. Control is patience, pure and simple. The previous answer included a decklist. I would probably find a way to add Lilliana Vess to the mix as well. Jace allows you to draw cards and Lilliana makes your opponent discard as well. As for creatures, nothing says fun to me like Gathering Specimens. In a control deck, it's a high mana cost spell and would not be recommended by most control players because of that reason, but you have to be careful when you play it is all. It's 3UUU to play and it actually gives you the creature your opponent is trying to put into play. Why is this fun? Vigor, when countered and it goes to the graveyard, gets shuffled back into your opponents library. Instead, why not bring it onto your side of the board? Your creatures get Vigor's protection ability and what isn't more fun that beating up your opponent with his own creature? Your opponent wants to play that indestructible or unblockable or shroud creature that you can't really deal with if it hits the field, well, take it before it hits the field and hit him with it. Any hardcast big creature can be yours for the taking, but be careful, he has to be almost tapped out on mana before you want to spend 6 yourself and possible not be able to counter the next spell.



Hope this helps with your decisions.
emperor_beethoven
2008-12-04 00:08:00 UTC
1. spell resolution is like eating pringles. the last one that entered the canister is the first one that would be eaten. in spell resolution, the last spell that entered the stack resolves first (last in, first out: LIFO). so if you're planning to counter the enemy's spell, you have to let him cast his spell first before you cast your counter-magic. besides, as a control player, you don't want to waste counter-spells when it's not really needed.



2. about making a control deck, allow me to share with you some lessons i learned while playing Magic. i'm a control player too. well, not a pure control player. control-combo, maybe.



first, you must understand what kind of control player are you. playing control doesn't always mean counter-spell battle. control play comes in various forms. some examples include discarder, basic counter-spell control, enchantment control (i'm currently experimenting on this one) and destruction (very common). some control plays are related to combo play, something like "combo lock". you know, something like, once you're "in the zone", there's no escape (except if you're too damn strong).



if you already understand what kind of control you want to play, think of the color (or colors) that's most appropriate. discarders usually (or always) go for black, since black has the best discarder spells (such as Hypnotic Specter).



for basic control, you need powerful draw spells, efficient counter-spells and powerful flying creatures. if you don't like creatures, look for a finisher that once it is in play, your enemy will have a very hard time recovering until such time that he's dead meat. a good finisher spell would be Phage, the Untouchable (but do not rest for phage. she's very hard to play if you're not mono-black). another one would be Teferi, Mage of Zhalfir.
anonymous
2008-12-06 11:31:15 UTC
You play your counterspell after he plays his spell, that way your spell resolves first.


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